Portrait

In the makeup kit of photographer Adeline Mai

Behind her lens, she captures the radiance of skin and the softness of gazes. A multi-faceted artist, photographer and video artist, Adeline Mai doesn't freeze images; she reveals them to shape a world where bodies breathe, vibrate and escape overly tight frames. Meet a woman who sees, and makes us see, differently.

Tell us all about yourself

"I'm a visual artist. I do photography, collages, video, and I'm also exploring tools linked to artificial intelligence. I love images in all their forms. I like to capture movement, especially that of women: a movement, a carriage of the head, a way of being. I'm not looking to freeze, but to reveal something ephemeral, silent, that passes between the lines."

Did you always know you'd be a photographer?

"No, it wasn't. I don't come from a creative background, so it wasn't an obvious option. But I've always photographed. It was there, almost instinctively, without telling myself that one day it would be my profession. At first, I photographed the women around me, friends and family, and then one day Jean-Charles de Castelbajac contacted me while I was still in high school to do the images for his collections. That was the moment that started it all. After that, I enrolled at the Gobelins school, and I already had a job when I left."

How would you define beauty?

"Beauty is self-confidence. It's feeling good, not having to justify yourself. It's also about flaws, what makes someone unique. It's what escapes us, what overflows a little. It's not a smooth surface: it's a presence. It's quiet assurance, but also sensitivity and fragility. Beauty is not what corresponds to a standard, it's what vibrates, what moves, even if it's not immediately pretty. It's everyone's imperfection."

How does it influence your work?

"Obviously, makeup plays an important role in the images I make. I photograph mostly women, and each has her own way of feeling beautiful. What's important is that they feel like themselves, comfortable in their own skin.

There's no disguise, no forced transformation. And when I work with models, make-up becomes a storytelling tool, an extension of the gaze. I collaborate with make-up artists who also have their own creative role, their own vision."

How has your relationship with make-up evolved?

"It has changed profoundly. Before, I used to wear make-up to camouflage. It has to be said that there weren't as many shades available, the products weren't necessarily suited to my skin tone, and the models you could identify with were very limited.

Today, I use makeup to reveal, to highlight. The range is wider, more inclusive, and that changes everything. With self-fulfilment also comes greater self-confidence. You take more responsibility for your imperfections.

What's your favorite part of your face to wear makeup on?

"The mouth, without hesitation. It's my gesture of refuge. Even when I'm tired, just off a plane, with nothing else on my face, a well-chosen lipstick immediately makes me look better. It's like a light armor, a sign of presence.

My favorite product: a tinted balm or pencil that I blur with my finger - quick, but effective.

For skincare, I carry a tube of sun cream in each of my bags, kit everywhere!"

How does your work influence the way you do your make-up?

"Working with such talented make-up artists has really helped me to improve! They share their tips with me, encouraging me to try things I wouldn't have dared to do on my own. They've taught me to nuance, to adapt makeup to the shape of my face, to think it through according to the light, my skin tone, the condition of my skin."