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Why you should really bet on retinol
Want to know more about retinol? That's normal, since this icon of the 1980s, known for its anti-acne and anti-wrinkle properties, is more desirable than ever. Presented in oil or serum form - and in increasingly careful packaging - what exactly is retinol? The journalist Bénédicte Burguet has interviewed the best experts to answer (finally) all your questions and give you an overview in 10 questions.
What is the most effective form of retinol?
While retinol is the best-known active ingredient, there are many different forms of retinoids, or vitamin A derivatives. Whatever their strength, it's retinoic acid, the most potent retinoid, that acts immediately on the skin. The various forms of retinoids include :
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Retinol esters: available over-the-counter, these are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for sensitive and reactive skin.
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Retinol: the best-known form of retinoid, more effective than retinol esters but less potent than retinoic acid.
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Retinaldehyde: also available without prescription, this is the most powerful retinoid. It is particularly effective against acne thanks to its antibacterial properties, and its actions are similar to those of retinoic acid.
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Retinoic acid esters : far less irritating than retinol, retinoic acid esters convert into both retinol, for a longer-lasting action, and retinoic acid, for an immediate effect.
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Retinoic acid: this is the most effective form of vitamin A (and can be the most irritating). It is available by prescription only.
Is retinol suitable for all ages?
It's not really a question of age but rather of objectives. Indeed, retinol, initially used to treat acne - and therefore young skin - also works wonders on the signs of aging - and therefore more mature skin. As for anti-aging, Kat Burki recommends it " between the ages of 20 and 30, as a preventive measure, to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles".
What are the best retinol combinations?
"A retinol product can be used with any skin care routine, explains Paula Begoun. It works well with other products ". However, tempers Kat Burki, "It's important that retinol is absorbed quickly. The lower the viscosity, the better. Oils and creams can prevent it from being absorbed, so it's best to apply them after the retinol.. "
But the best associations are often the simplestas Nadine Pomarède reminds us: "It can be combined with other antioxidants such as vitamins C and E to have a global antioxidant action. It can also be combined with hyaluronic acid, which has an anti-aging effect but also moisturizes and counteracts the drying effect of retinol, especially at the beginning of use. And in the event of very reactive skin, it is better to immediately add anti-inflammatory solutions like "hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, green tea, jojoba oil... ", advises Valérie Leduc.
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