Why you should really bet on retinol

What is retinol?

Here's what you need to know about retinol:

- It is a derivative of vitamin A - the first vitamin to be discovered, in 1913.

- It's also a chemical compound synthesized from isoprene or pentadiene.

- Belongs to the retinoid family.

- It is fat-soluble and extremely fragile - it deteriorates on contact with oxygen, light and heat.

Retinol had its heyday in the 1980s, when it flooded the market. Not surprising, since this molecule is capable of transforming the skin in just four weeks of use.

Retinol and Retinoids? What's the difference?

The retinoids is a generic term for retinol, encompassing the retinol-based skincare products you'll find on Oh My Cream's shelves, and retinol-based skincare products prescribed by healthcare professionals. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, transformed into retinoic acid, found in our beauty care products. Retinol is one form of retinoid, whose molecular weight may differ from that of other retinoids. Other forms of retinoids include adapalene, a topical retinoid, and tretinoin, often used in acne treatments.

What is the most effective form of retinol?

While retinol is the best-known active ingredient, there are many different forms of retinoids, or vitamin A derivatives. Whatever their strength, it's retinoic acid, the most potent retinoid, that acts immediately on the skin. The various forms of retinoids include :

Retinol esters: available over-the-counter, these are the gentlest retinoids, ideal for sensitive and reactive skin.
Retinol: the best-known form of retinoid, more effective than retinol esters but less potent than retinoic acid.
Retinaldehyde: also available without prescription, this is the most powerful retinoid. It is particularly effective against acne thanks to its antibacterial properties, and its actions are similar to those of retinoic acid.
Retinoic acid esters : far less irritating than retinol, retinoic acid esters convert into both retinol, for a longer-lasting action, and retinoic acid, for an immediate effect.
Retinoic acid: this is the most effective form of vitamin A (and can be the most irritating). It is available by prescription only.

When to use retinol

"Retinol is an active ingredient that oxidizes on contact with air and sunlight. It has to be prepared and transported at low temperature, in an oxygen-free atmosphere", explains Paula Begoun, founder of the Paula's Choice brand. A real challenge ! Dr. Nadine Pomarède, dermatologist and founder of the Dermo Medical Center in Paris and Brussels, adds: "The problem with retinol is to obtain a stable form for it to be effective. Hence the importance of choosing this super-powerful yet fragile active ingredient carefully , and storing it for a maximum of three months.

In addition, " it is recommended to apply retinol at night, so that it is not degraded by sunlight ", explains Kat Burkifounder of the cosmetics line of the same name. "And always on cleansed, dry skin to avoid irritation, adds Valérie Leduc, specialist in aesthetic medicine and co-founder of Maison Epigenetic in Paris.

What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?

Thanks to its keratolytic action, retinol smoothes the skin's surface texture, retinol's keratolytic action smoothes the skin's surface texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening dilated pores, giving a radiant glow, promoting cell regeneration and stimulating the formation of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and fibroblasts... "Retinol also acts against free radicals, which are the consequence of exposure to UV rays, tobacco and pollution, and are responsible for cutaneous aging and epidermal degradation, adds Valérie Leduc. Finally, it regulates the synthesis of melanin, limiting the formation of spots and diminishing their appearance. It has long been the treatment of choice for acne, for its action on sebum production and inflammation.. "

"Vitamin A derivatives are also used as anti-imperfection active ingredients", as Nadine Pomarède explains.

In the dermis, retinol protects against collagen breakdown, stimulates fibroblasts and the production of elastin and hyaluronic acid. It also improves microcirculation and thus skin radiance.

In short, because it treats "a whole range of problems from anti-aging to acne, retinol is an excellent active ingredient for skin maintenance and repair", concludes Paula Begoun.

How often should I use retinol?

It all depends on your skin type and objective. For example, on acne-prone and sensitive skin, you don't need a high concentration, and not over the long term, as retinol will refine the epidermis. With the result you can imagine...

Of course, for higher doses, it's best to seek the advice of a dermatologist - especially as some creams are only available on prescription. For milder forms, Kat Burki recommends "start with three nights a week and test your reaction before going any further. With a reasonable dosage and good tolerance, retinol can be used up to once a day.. "

Is retinol suitable for all ages?

It's not really a question of age, but rather of objectives. Retinol, initially used to treat acne - and therefore young skin - also works wonders on the signs of aging - and therefore more mature skin. As far as anti-aging is concerned, Kat Burki recommends it " between the ages of 20 and 30, as a preventive measure, to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles".

Cream, oil, serum or mask? What form should retinol take?

All the experts agree on this point: the form is of little importance, as retinol is soluble in both creams and oils. So it's a question of affinity. " It can be found in many types of products, including serums, boosters, fluids, lotions and moisturizersexplains Paula Begoun. It simply depends on your skin type and preferences.. "

Whatever form it takes, don't forget your SPF the next day. Because retinol's action on the skin can make it more fragile: " It's very important to use sun protection. It is very important to use sun protectionbecause retinol-treated skin is sensitized and reactive", advises Valérie Leduc.

What are the best retinol combinations?

"A retinol-based product can be combined with any skincare routine, explains Paula Begoun. It works perfectly with other products ". However, tempers Kat Burki, "it's important that retinol is absorbed quickly. The lower the viscosity, the better. Oils and creams can prevent it from being absorbed, so it's best to apply them after retinol.. "

But the best combinations are often the simplestas Nadine Pomarède reminds us: "You can combine it with other antioxidants such as vitamins C and E for an overall antioxidant action. It can also be combined with hyaluronic acid, which not only has an anti-aging effect, but also moisturizes and counteracts the drying effect of retinol, especially at the start of use. And in the case of very reactive skin it's best to immediately add anti-inflammatory solutions such as "hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, green tea, jojoba oil... ", advises Valérie Leduc.

Is there such a thing as "green" retinol?

Yes, bakuchiol!

This plant-derived ingredient, found in the leaves and seeds of Psoralea Corylifolia, acts like retinol. It is also found in food in the form of carotenes (vitamin A derivatives). "The foods richest in retinol are cod liver oil and organ meats, while the most commonly consumed products are butter, cream, cheese and eggs. Carotenes are found mainly in orange fruits and vegetables, as well as green vegetables. ", says Valérie Leduc.

And it's the star ingredient (along with Vitamin C) of ourOh My Cream Skincare Plumping Cream , acreamy lotion that moisturizes, firms, boosts radiance and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, while leaving skin nourished and comfortable.

Oh My Cream's retinol alternative skincare products

Retinol Alternative Cream Indie Lee: This creamy-textured face cream offers a gentle alternative to retinol thanks to its rambutan extracts, capable of reducing the appearance of fine lines, improving skin elasticity and firming. Ideal for the retinol-averse!
Bio Retinoid Youth Cream Ren Clean Skincare: This complete, cocoon-textured anti-aging cream reduces fine lines and wrinkles, firms and smoothes, and offers an immediate lifting effect, thanks to its 100% natural retinol-derived active ingredient, the Bidens Pilosa plant. Easy to adopt, it's ideal for sensitive skin, since in addition to being eco-responsible, its anti-aging active ingredient is non-irritating.
Age Specific Lift Pro Collagen Mask Patyka: This night mask with retinol-like effects boosts collagen production to firm, fill wrinkles and restore skin elasticity, while boosting radiance thanks to its cutting-edge plant active ingredients.
Moon Fruit Retinol Alternative Herbivore: Combining bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinol, and antioxidant-rich superfruits, this night mask smoothes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles without irritation, and ensures moisturized skin and rested features, just like after a good night's sleep.

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