Discover the world of clean beauty with Oh My Cream

Cyclic silicones include cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

To put it simply, silicones are mainly used to "texturize" a product, make it easier to apply, improve make-up hold, combat water loss by creating a mesh on the skin's surface, or stabilize specific active ingredients (such as retinol or peptides, for example).

There are two types of silicones:

1. Heavy" silicones, which remain on the skin's surface. This is the case with dimethicone, for example. No problem for dimethicone, whose safety has been well proven.

2. In fact, since June 2026, most of them have been banned at concentrations of 0.1% by weight or higher. For our part, we have eliminated them from our formulas since September 2020.

   Volatile" silicones, which fade on contact with skin heat. These include all silicones beginning with cyclo-.... They are strongly suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and some are currently being re-evaluated by regulatory bodies. In fact, some of them are already banned in rinse-off products. In a few years' time, this could also be the case for non-rinse-off products. We have therefore decided to exclude them from our formulas. 

    

At Oh My Cream, we advocate moderation. And the sun is one of those pleasures to be enjoyed in small doses. To protect your skin, we prefer to recommend certain mineral filters, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or certain chemical filters (such as avobenzone, for example, but there are others). For your information, to date, no sunscreen ingredient is 100% flawless… Formulators must therefore balance a range of available sunscreen ingredients to offer the best possible protection with good skin tolerance and the least impact on our environment. We ask our brands a lot of questions about these topics… but we also know how crucial sun protection is for safeguarding your skin from more serious damage. We therefore feature a selection of products with different textures and scents to encourage you to protect yourself as effectively as possible when you’re out in the sun.

However, we decided to exclude homosalate, benzophenone, and oxybenzone, as they are currently undergoing reevaluation and there were strong suspicions that they might affect the endocrine system.

The case of octocrylene: Under re-study by the SCCS for several years, this sunscreen has long been suspected of disrupting the endocrine system. At the end of March 2021, the SCCS indicated that its use was safe up to 10% (the percentage to which it is currently limited by the Cosmetics Regulation) in a cosmetic product.
Octocrylene is therefore accepted in our charter, the SCCS considering that there is insufficient evidence to conclude on its potential endocrine disrupting effect. 

Once again, we’re not debating the importance of preservatives in cosmetics. They’re what allow us to enjoy all the benefits of our skincare products while protecting our favorite formulas from microbial contamination.

Parabens

In 2004, parabens were sidelined. The reason: a study that had analyzed breast tumors in women and found parabens in them. The conclusion at the time was that parabens promoted the development of breast cancer. Later, this study was refuted because it was not scientifically sound. Parabens have since been the subject of numerous studies, which have shown, in particular, that short-chain parabens such as methylparaben and ethylparaben are safe, well-tolerated, and unlikely to cause allergies.

In contrast, long-chain parabens have been banned (such as isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben), and the use of butylparaben and propylparaben has been strictly regulated since 2014. The main criticism of this family of parabens is that they are too similar to estrogens.

At Oh My Cream, we chose to avoid this class of preservatives because there are many alternatives available for preserving a product without any concerns.

MIT and MCIT
During the turmoil surrounding parabens, it's MIT (for Methylisothiazolinone) and MCIT (for Methylchloroisothiazolinone) that have crept into many formulas to preserve them. However, these two preservatives from the same family are highly sensitizing. Here again, since formulators have alternatives, we prefer to turn our backs on them...

BHA and BHT
BHA (ButylHydroxyAnisole) and BHT (ButylHydroxyToluene) are antioxidants known to protect oils against rancidity. As such, they are often found in fat-rich products such as creamy creams and lipsticks. But both are suspected of being endocrine disruptors, and are currently being re-examined by regulatory bodies. As other solutions are available in our catalog, we prefer not to include them in our formulas.

Climbazole, benzotriazole, and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

These preservatives are now strongly suspected of being endocrine disruptors and/or of being classified as CMR (CMR stands for carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic. This acronym refers to a category of chemicals that are particularly hazardous in their pure form and that, either alone or in mixtures, can cause harmful effects in humans.) Here, too, it is entirely possible to do without them, and numerous alternatives are available to ensure your favorite product stays fresh.

PFAS

PFAS have many useful properties; they are heat-, water-, and oil-resistant, making them useful in a wide range of applications. They can be used as emulsifiers, stabilizers, surfactants, film-forming agents, and solvents.

The use of PFAS in cosmetics was justified by their unique water- and oil-repellent properties, which make the products waterproof. In addition to their water-repellent properties, PFAS also help extend the shelf life of products, preserve their colour , and improve the texture of lipstick, for example.

However, they are also known as “forever chemicals” and are believed to cause numerous harmful effects on our health. Fortunately, European authorities (primarily through the REACH restriction proposal) are moving toward a near-total ban on PFAS for all uses, including in cosmetics.

Derived from petrochemicals, mineral oils are inert for the skin and totally harmless. The reason for their exclusion? Their chemical composition has no affinity with the skin. These ingredients remain on the surface, forming an insulating film. This is why mineral oils are often used in bandage formulas for babies or very dry skin, because in addition to their barrier effect (which limits insensible water loss), they are very well tolerated and do not react with other ingredients in the formulas. Their lipophilic properties also enable them to easily emulsify other impurities.

At Oh My Cream, we therefore tolerate them when they are present in products for dry or mature skin (they act as a band-aid and the natural molecules treat the cause in depth). On the other hand, we don't think they belong in products for blemished skin.

These are foaming agents: those lovely bubbles in your favorite shampoo? They’re all thanks to them! They’re often criticized for being too effective. Behind their strong foaming power lies a side effect that can be a bit irritating to the skin and eyes. Fortunately, this downside can be offset by combining them with mild foaming agents (such as sugar derivatives). Brands have also significantly reduced the percentage of sulfates used in their formulas. We keep a close eye on them, but we don’t blacklist them. It’s all about dosage and formulation!

This small molecule belongs to the class of beta-hydroxy acids. In addition to its exfoliating properties, it is also known to regulate sebum production and be highly effective at fighting blemishes. It is also a good preservative.

In a re Review(s) d in late 2018, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that salicylic acid poses no risk when used in accordance with regulatory requirements. Used both as a preservative and as an active ingredient, it is permitted at limited concentrations (but is prohibited in toothpaste, products likely to be inhaled, and products intended for children under 3 years of age).

We will therefore continue to accept this ingredient, but we will keep a close eye on the products that contain it.

They are used as hair conditioners and are known for their effective detangling properties. Some also act as preservatives.

A high concentration can be irritating, and its manufacturing process raises environmental concerns. Since this is a very large family of compounds, not all of them have exactly the same structure (Quaternium-15, for example, has been banned). However, it is currently one of the few alternatives to silicones. Oh My Cream does not ban them, but carefully monitors their use when they are combined in a formula. Similarly, we prefer Behentrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which are effective alternatives used in natural cosmetics.

These are emulsifiers that act as texturizing agents and “push” the active ingredients into the product. Some also act as humectants, meaning they retain water and prevent dryness.

It is true that their environmental impact is not neutral (their manufacturing process, in particular, raises concerns). However, this group of ingredients poses no health risks. We have therefore chosen not to blacklist them—not because we don’t care about the environment, but because we are committed to offering products suitable for all skin types.

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative widely used in cosmetics, particularly in the wake of the controversy surrounding parabens. Some people have criticized it, suggesting it may act as an endocrine disruptor; however, to date, there is no scientific data that truly supports these claims.

Furthermore, at the maximum permitted concentration (1%), it has been shown that you would need to apply 47 jars of cream to your face to reach a “toxic” dose. And when you consider that many brands don’t even reach that permitted percentage, you can use your favorite products with complete peace of mind…

They are called chelating agents, meaningthey have the ability to bind other molecules, enabling the formula to maintain perfect stability. They have no impact on health. On the other hand, it is true that this ingredient has a significant environmental impact: it does not disintegrate in the environment and continues its work by "catching" molecules.

However, given its safety and efficacy (natural alternatives do exist, but are less effective), we've decided not to do without it for the time being.

It's true that some fragrance molecules can be allergenic or sensitizing. In fact, those that are allergenic must, by law, be listed at the very end of the composition when they exceed a certain threshold: 0.01% in rinsed products, 0.001% in non-rinsed products, to enable allergy sufferers to identify them. Why aren't they indicated below these thresholds? Because these are the thresholds that trigger an allergic reaction in sensitized people.

It's also important to know that a natural fragrance is often more allergenic than a synthetic one. In fact, essential oils are the most commonly used molecules for perfuming a product with natural ingredients . However, these are complex ingredients, sometimes comprising over a hundred molecules, which means that sensitive skin has to assimilate many messages. We have therefore chosen to include brands that use both synthetic and natural fragrances in our listings, because we are convinced that this contributes enormously to the sensorial experience of a product. And to satisfy all skin types, we also offer fragrance-free brands.

Floral waters (or hydrolats) are obtained during the distillation process of essential oils. They are therefore distilled waters - much less concentrated than essential oils - with highly interesting cosmetic virtues. Soothing, moisturizing, balancing... They are mainly used in tonics, either pure or in synergy with other active ingredients or hydrolats. There are as many benefits as there are floral waters on the market. 

Floral waters are notably present in the following lotions and toners: 

• Hydrating Floral Essence Tata Harper, a cocktail of Damask rose, neroli and lavender floral waters

• Century Flower Protective Shield Mist by Paï Skincare, infused with lotus and orange blossom waters

• DermalogicaHyaluronic Ceramide Mist Lotion with Hyaluronic Acid, combining rose water, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid

• The Augustinus Bader Face Mist , formulated with rose floral water and TFC8®

They’re sort of the stars of our cosmetic products,since they’re found in nearly all of our skincare items and very often serve as the “base” of a formula. Each oil has its own unique benefits—so there’s more to them than just their nourishing properties. They can boost regeneration, balance the skin, brighten, and protect—enough to satisfy all skin types, even combination to oily skin! 

You will find vegetable oils in the following products:

• Nourishing Oil Cleanser Tata Harper composed of a blend of 6 precious plant oils
• Oh My Cream SkincarePlumping Oil, which features marula and avocado oils

• Paï Skincare BioRegenerate Oil, the " cult " oil with wild rose

• Mega Oil Talm, a blend of rich oils (sweet almond, argan, sesame, and sunflower)

Essential oils are true concentrates of natural benefits. While they’re increasingly found in medicine cabinets, they’re also widely used in clean cosmetics (such as moisturizers, skincare oils, and serums). They’re known for their cleansing, regenerating, purifying, anti-aging, and soothing properties… They can also replace synthetic fragrances or be used to naturally preserve a product.

Some emblematic products using the benefits of essential oils:

• Oil Bath for the Senses Susanne Kaufmann

• Curative Body Restorative Oil with Sage, Rosemary, and Lavender 252 - L:a Bruket

• CorpusNatural Neroli Deodorant

Yes, quite simply. The number of varieties is incalculable, because that would mean having to scour every square inch of the entire world! To name just a few of the plants we love at Oh My Cream:aloe vera is ideal for moisturizing and repairing the skin,oatmeal is very soothing,arnica is a natural anti-inflammatory, green tea has astringent and detoxifying properties, chamomile is very effective in combating redness and feelings of discomfort... 

You'll find it in the following products, for example:

• The Anthemis Soothing Day Cream Paï Skincare

• Daily Milkfoliant Dermalogica

• Detox Cleansing Foam Patyka

Superfoods aren't just good for our bodies—they're good for our skin, too! We love using them in our skincare products for their ultra-protective antioxidant power. But why is there so much talk about antioxidants? Both in our bodies and in our skin, we have a natural reserve of antioxidants that fights free radicals—molecules that disrupt our cellular function—on a daily basis. The problem? When excessive stress, rampant pollution, and a poor diet come into play… the natural balance between antioxidants and free radicals is disrupted. This is known as oxidative stress. So, just as it’s important to eat 5 fruits and vegetables a day, incorporate skincare products rich in pomegranate, goji berries, or even broccoli into your routine. 

Skincare products that fill you up with superfoods:

• Waterlock Moisturizer Tata Harper
• Firming Oil Susanne Kaufmann
• Açai Facial Oil Rudolph Care
• Remineralizing Whitening Toothpaste The Smilist

Primarily used in purifying and detoxifying face masks, there are many varieties available to meet the needs of all skin types. Why do we love them so much? By acting like magnets on the skin’s surface, they’re highly effective at absorbing impurities and helping to tighten pores— but that’s not all… They’re also found in many products for their anti-pollution and even soothing properties. 

The clay mask is a classic, reinterpreted in many forms:

• Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask: Purifying Exfoliating Mask Innisfree
• Ceramic Slip Sunday Riley
• Deep-Cleansing Charcoal Mask Patyka

While they have the same exfoliating function as fruit acids, fruit enzymes are less potent, which is why they are recommended for sensitive skin. In this large family, we find papaya, kiwi, apple, pumpkin, pomegranate... Stimulating cell renewal, they also have the ability to smooth skin texture by nibbling away dead surface cells. 

Fruit enzymes are found in the following exfoliants:

• Exfoliating Powder Oh My Cream Skincare, 
• Cloudberry Exfoliating Jelly Cleanser Goop Beauty
• Renaissance Cleansing Gel Oskia
• Enzyme Peel Susanne Kaufmann

The main fruit acids used in cosmetics are lactic and glycolic acids. They belong to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family. These powerful exfoliants stimulate cell renewal, microcirculation and collagen synthesis. We prefer chemical exfoliants based on fruit acids to classic grainy scrubs, because they are gentler and more respectful of the cutaneous barrier. 

Fruit acids can be found in masks, lotions and exfoliating powders:

• Renaissance Mask Oskia

• Purity Glass Skin Facial Exfoliator Antipodes

• AHA Enzyme Body Lotion Susanne Kaufmann

• Daily Microfoliant Dermalogica

We love this molecule, which can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water! Hyaluronic acid, while naturally present in the skin, sees its natural reserves diminish over time, increasing dehydration and fine lines. That's why offering a supplement in the form of a cream or serum, for example, is no luxury! 

This star moisturizing ingredient is present in many compositions:

• Moisturizing Serum Oh My Cream Skincare 
• Susanne KaufmannHyaluron Moisturizing Serum
• Skin Restore Mimétique
• Plumping Oil Oh My Cream Skincare  

Probiotics are like the "guardian bacteria" our skin may need to defend itself against bad bacteria. They help rebalance and strengthen the skin's flora, and are also highly recommended for very sensitive skin. To find out more, read our article Our favorite probiotic skincare products and their benefits.

You'll find it in these products, for example:

• Cleansing Emulsion Oh My Cream Skincare

• Century Flower Toner Paï Skincare

• Credo Probiotic-Fermented Revitalizing Serum Antipodes

• Relief Sun Soothing Sunscreen with Rice & Probiotics SPF50+ Beauty Of Joseon

Peptides are powerful anti-aging active ingredients whose role is to "give a helping hand" to the cell renewal process. Widely used in clean cosmetics, they are highly effective in slowing the appearance of wrinkles and loss of skin firmness, since peptides stimulate fibroblasts and activate their own production. The circle is complete! They also have an anti-stain and anti-pollution action.

For a healthy dose of anti-aging peptides, opt for :

• Plumping Cream Oh My Cream Skincare
• CTRL Eye Eye Contour Cream Mimétique
• Youth-Boost NAD+ Peptide Rich Cream Goop Beauty
• PEPTIDE PREP™ Detoxifying Shampoo K18

Fine particles, exhaust fumes, and even blue light accelerate aging, increase skin sensitivity, and dull the complexion. That said, vitamins are naturally antioxidant. But certain active ingredients are even more potent at higher doses: this is the case with superoxide dismutase, astaxanthin, glutathione (ingredients naturally present in our bodies), resveratrol, and others. They are particularly valued for their high level of protection against pollution, since their role is to neutralize free radicals. 

A few skincare products that use the properties of antioxidants to help urban skin :

• Antioxidant Day Cream Holidermie
• Vitamin C Oil-in-Serum Skin Diligent
• C Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Moisturizer Dermalogica

Vitamin C (or L-ascorbic acid) is theradiance and anti-stain active ingredient par excellence. It also neutralizes free radicals (aka pollution) and boosts collagen production, making it a super anti-aging ingredient. We take great care to select products with the highest quality vitamin C content, but we also give priority to its stabilized formula, as it is a very fragile vitamin. For more details, read our article Vitamin C: why does my skin need it?

For a vitamin C cure, opt for :

• C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Sunday Riley

• Super-C Beauty Nutritional Capsules Oskia

• Vitamin C 10% Antioxidant Serum Pers

• Biolumin-C Eye Serum Dermalogica

Retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient.Able to penetrate deep into the skin, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibers, helping to minimize the appearance of wrinkles... but that’s not all. Italso promotes cell renewal, smoothing the skin’s texture and helping to fade the appearance of dark spots or the traces of past blemishes. We are now able to offer this super-active ingredient in non-irritating formulations so you can reap all its benefits. Those with sensitive skin can also turn to a new natural active ingredient called bakuchiol, which delivers similar results.

• 0.3% Retinol Skin Activating Serum Pers

• Retinol Green Tea PDRN™ Firming Serum Innisfree

• The Retinol Serum Augustinus Bader

• A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum with Retinoids Sunday Riley

Niacinamide (or Vitamin B3) is a vitamin with numerous cosmetic benefits, mainly found in serums. Among other things, it smoothes skin texture and fights imperfections, adds radiance to the complexion and stimulates collagen production, making it an excellent anti-aging active ingredient. And, like other vitamins, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from pollution. Niacinamide has it all!

To test niacinamide in action, turn to :

• Anti-Blemish Serum Oh My Cream Skincare
• Age Bright Clearing Serum Dermalogica

Plant stem cells, the use of which in cosmetics is the fruit of lengthy scientific research, are highly appreciated for slowing down skin ageing. They are capable of effectively stimulating the self-renewal process of skin cells. We have great faith in this new, cutting-edge anti-aging technology!

These highly technical active ingredients can be found in the following serums and creams:

• Restorative Eye Cream Indie Lee
• EGF Serum Bioeffect