Cyclic silicones include cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

To put it simply, silicones are mainly used to "texturize" a product, make it easier to apply, improve make-up hold, combat water loss by creating a mesh on the skin's surface, or stabilize specific active ingredients (such as retinol or peptides, for example).

There are two types of silicones:

1. Heavy" silicones, which remain on the skin's surface. This is the case with dimethicone, for example. No problem for dimethicone, whose safety has been well proven.

2. Volatile" silicones, which fade on contact with skin heat. These include all silicones beginning with cyclo-.... They are strongly suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and some are currently being re-evaluated by regulatory bodies. In fact, some of them are already banned in rinse-off products. In a few years' time, this could also be the case for non-rinse-off products. We have therefore decided to exclude them from our formulas.

At Oh My Cream, we're all about moderation. And the sun is one of the pleasures to be indulged in small quantities. To protect your skin, we recommend mineral filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (without nano particles) or chemical filters (such as avobenzone, but there are others). For your information, to date, no filter is 100% irreproachable... The formulator must therefore juggle with a range of available sun filters, in order to offer the best possible protection with good tolerance and the least impact on our environment. We question our brands a lot on these subjects... but we also know how important sun protection is to protect skin from further damage. So we've put together a selection of products with different textures and scents to help you protect yourself when you're out in the sun.

However, we chose to exclude homosalate and benzophenone, as they are currently being re-evaluated and the suspicion of endocrine disrupting effects was too strong.

The case of octocrylene: Under re-study by the SCCS for several years, this sunscreen has long been suspected of disrupting the endocrine system. At the end of March 2021, the SCCS indicated that its use was safe up to 10% (the percentage to which it is currently limited by the Cosmetics Regulation) in a cosmetic product.
Octocrylene is therefore accepted in our charter, the SCCS considering that there is insufficient evidence to conclude on its potential endocrine disrupting effect. 

Here again, we're not arguing about the importance of preservatives in cosmetics. They're what enable us to enjoy all the benefits of our skincare products, while protecting our beloved formulas from microbial contamination.

Parabens
In 2004, parabens were sidelined. The cause: a study which analyzed women's breast tumors and found parabens. It was concluded that parabens promote the development of breast cancer. This study was later invalidated as scientifically invalid. Since then, parabens have been the subject of numerous studies, which have shown that short-chain parabens such as Methylparaben and Ethylparaben are safe, well tolerated and not very allergenic.
In contrast, long-chain parabens have been banned (e.g. Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Phenylparaben, Benzylparaben and Pentylparaben) and the use of Butylparaben and Propylparaben has been strictly regulated since 2014. The main criticism of this family of parabens is that they are too similar to estrogens.

At Oh My Cream, we prefer to avoid this family of preservatives, as there are many alternatives available for preserving a product, without worrying about the quality of the product..

MIT and MCIT
During the turmoil surrounding parabens, it's MIT (for Methylisothiazolinone) and MCIT (for Methylchloroisothiazolinone) that have crept into many formulas to preserve them. However, these two preservatives from the same family are highly sensitizing. Here again, since formulators have alternatives, we prefer to turn our backs on them...

BHA and BHT
BHA (ButylHydroxyAnisole) and BHT (ButylHydroxyToluene) are antioxidants known to protect oils against rancidity. As such, they are often found in fat-rich products such as creamy creams and lipsticks. But both are suspected of being endocrine disruptors, and are currently being re-examined by regulatory bodies. As other solutions are available in our catalog, we prefer not to include them in our formulas.

Derived from petrochemicals, mineral oils are inert for the skin and totally harmless. The reason for their exclusion? Their chemical composition has no affinity with the skin. These ingredients remain on the surface, forming an insulating film. This is why mineral oils are often used in bandage formulas for babies or very dry skin, because in addition to their barrier effect (which limits insensible water loss), they are very well tolerated and do not react with other ingredients in the formulas. Their lipophilic properties also enable them to easily emulsify other impurities.

At Oh My Cream, we therefore tolerate them when they are present in products for dry or mature skin (they act as a band-aid and the natural molecules treat the cause in depth). On the other hand, we don't think they belong in products for blemished skin.

They're foaming agents: the pretty bubbles in your favorite shampoo are thanks to them! They are often criticized for being too effective. Underneath their strong foaming power, they can be a little irritating to the skin and eyes. Fortunately, this can be counterbalanced by combining them with gentle foaming agents (such as coconut derivatives). Brands have also significantly reduced the percentage of sulfates used in their formulas. We keep a close eye on them, but we don't blacklist them. It's all a question of dosage and combination!

This small molecule falls into the category of beta-hydroxy acids. In addition to its exfoliating action, it is also known to regulate sebum production and have a formidable anti-imperfection action. It's also a good preservative.
In an opinion published at the end of 2018, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concludes that salicylic acid poses no problem if used under regulatory conditions. Used as a preservative as well as an active ingredient, it is authorized at limited concentrations (but prohibited in toothpastes, products likely to be inhaled, and products intended for children under 3 years of age).
We therefore continue to accept this ingredient but watch with vigilance the products in which it is present.

They are used as hair conditioners and are known for their good detangling properties. Some also act as preservatives.
A high percentage can be irritating, and their manufacturing process raises ecological issues. As this family is very large, they do not all have exactly the same structure (Quaternium 15, for example, has been banned). However, today they are one of the only alternatives to silicones. Oh My Cream doesn't ban them, but watches carefully when they are added to a formula. Similarly, we prefer Behentrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which are effective alternatives used in natural cosmetics.

They are emulsifiers that act as texture agents and "push" the active ingredients inside. Some are also humectants, which means they retain water and prevent the skin from drying out.
It's true that their ecological impact is not neutral (their manufacturing process in particular raises questions). However, this family of ingredients poses no health problems. We have therefore chosen not to blacklist them, not because ecology is of little importance to us, but because we are committed to offering a product range suitable for all skin types.

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative widely used in cosmetics, particularly in the wake of the post-paraben controversy. Some point the finger at phenoxyethanol as an endocrine disruptor, but to date, there is no scientific data to support these claims.

Furthermore, at the maximum authorized dosage (1%), it has been proven that 47 jars of cream would have to be applied to the face to reach a "toxic" dose. And when you know that many brands don't even go as far as this authorized percentage, you can use your favorite products with complete peace of mind...

They are called chelating agents, meaningthey have the ability to bind other molecules, enabling the formula to maintain perfect stability. They have no impact on health. On the other hand, it is true that this ingredient has a significant environmental impact: it does not disintegrate in the environment and continues its work by "catching" molecules.

However, given its safety and efficacy (natural alternatives do exist, but are less effective), we've decided not to do without it for the time being.

It's true that some fragrance molecules can be allergenic or sensitizing. In fact, those that are allergenic must, by law, be listed at the very end of the composition when they exceed a certain threshold: 0.01% in rinsed products, 0.001% in non-rinsed products, to enable allergy sufferers to identify them. Why aren't they indicated below these thresholds? Because these are the thresholds that trigger an allergic reaction in sensitized people.

It's also important to know that a natural fragrance is often more allergenic than a synthetic one. In fact, essential oils are the most commonly used molecules for perfuming a product with natural ingredients . However, these are complex ingredients, sometimes comprising over a hundred molecules, which means that sensitive skin has to assimilate many messages. We have therefore chosen to include brands that use both synthetic and natural fragrances in our listings, because we are convinced that this contributes enormously to the sensorial experience of a product. And to satisfy all skin types, we also offer fragrance-free brands.

Floral waters (or hydrolats) are obtained during the distillation process of essential oils. They are therefore distilled waters - much less concentrated than essential oils - with highly interesting cosmetic virtues. Soothing, moisturizing, balancing... They are mainly used in tonics, either pure or in synergy with other active ingredients or hydrolats. There are as many benefits as there are floral waters on the market. 

Floral waters are notably present in the following lotions and toners: 

• Hydrating Floral Essence Tata Harper, a cocktail of Damask rose, neroli and lavender floral waters
• Lotus & Orange Blossom Tonic Pai Skincare, loaded with lotus and orange blossom waters
• Resurrect Clarifying Tonic Antipodescombining lavender, chamomile and sage floral waters
• Floral Water Toner Oskia, with Rose floral water

Ah, vegetable oils! They're a bit like the stars of our cosmetic products, asthey're found in almost every skincare product, and very often as the "base" of a formula. Each oil has its own specific benefits, so we don't stop at their nourishing powers alone. They can boost regeneration, regulate, illuminate, protect... enough to satisfy all skin types, even combination to oily skin! 

You will find vegetable oils in the following products:

• Nourishing Oil Cleanser Tata Harper composed of a blend of 6 precious plant oils
• Huile Correctrice Oh My Cream Skincarewith macadamia and sesame oils
• BioRegenerate Oil Pai Skincare, the cult oil with wild rose
• Mon Huilette Night Les Huilettes, a combination of rich oils (argan, jojoba, avocado)

Essential oils are real concentrates of natural benefits. While they are increasingly found in medicine cabinets, they are also widely used in clean cosmetics cosmetics (e.g. moisturizers, treatment oils and serums). They are recognized for their cleansing, regenerating, purifying, anti-aging and soothing properties... They can also replace synthetic fragrances or be used to preserve a product naturally.

Some emblematic products using the benefits of essential oils:

• Oil Bath for the Senses Susanne Kaufmann
• Balancing skin booster concentrate with Ylang Ylang Merme
• Cream deodorant Soapwalla Kitchen
• Anti-Frisottis Elixir John Masters Organics

Yes, quite simply. The number of varieties is incalculable, because that would mean having to scour every square inch of the entire world! To name just a few of the plants we love at Oh My Cream:aloe vera is ideal for moisturizing and repairing the skin,oatmeal is very soothing,arnica is a natural anti-inflammatory, green tea has astringent and detoxifying properties, chamomile is very effective in combating redness and feelings of discomfort... 

You'll find it in the following products, for example:

• Chamomile & Rosehip soothing day cream Paï Skincare
• Active 7 eye contour gel Ren
• Detox cleansing foam Patyka

Superfoods aren't just good for our bodies, they're good for our skin too! We love using them in our cosmetics for their ultra-protective antioxidant power. But why are we talking so much about antioxidants? In our bodies, as in our skin, we have a natural reserve of antioxidants that we use every day to fight free radicals (molecules that unbalance our cellular functioning). The problem? When excessive stress, pollution galore and poor diet get in the way... the natural antioxidant/free-radical balance is upset. This is known as oxidative stress. So, just as it's important to eat 5 fruits and vegetables a day, adopt skin care products rich in pomegranate, goji berries and broccoli.

Skincare products that fill you up with superfoods:

• Purifying Mask Tata Harper
• Goji Essence Kat Burki
• Youthful Shaping Cream Patyka
• Pomegranate & Pumpkin Seed Anti-Stretch Mark System Paï Skincare

Mainly used in purifying and detoxifying masks, they come in many varieties to meet the needs of all skin types. Why do we love them so much? By acting like real magnets on the skin's surface, they are highly effective at absorbing impurities and helping to tighten pores, but that's not all... they can also be found in many products for their anti-pollution and even soothing powers. 

The clay mask is a classic, reinterpreted in many forms:

• Purifying mask for invisible pores Ren, clay combined with spirulina to fight pores
• Deep Clean Facial Merme, 100% green clay version!
• Charcoal Detox Mask Patyka, clay and charcoal, for a burst of freshness

While they have the same exfoliating function as fruit acids, fruit enzymes are less potent, which is why they are recommended for sensitive skin. In this large family, we find papaya, kiwi, apple, pumpkin, pomegranate... Stimulating cell renewal, they also have the ability to smooth skin texture by nibbling away dead surface cells. 

Fruit enzymes are found in the following exfoliants:

• Exfoliating powder Oh My Cream Skincare,
• Vitam Foaming Cleanser Nuori
• Renaissance Cleansing Gel Oskia
• Enzyme Peel Susanne Kaufmann

The main fruit acids used in cosmetics are lactic and glycolic acids. They belong to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family. These powerful exfoliants stimulate cell renewal, microcirculation and collagen synthesis. We prefer chemical exfoliants based on fruit acids to classic grainy scrubs, because they are gentler and more respectful of the cutaneous barrier. 

Fruit acids can be found in masks, lotions and exfoliating powders:

• Renaissance Mask Oskia
• Radiance Renewal pads Indie Lee
• Ready Steady Glow Toner Ren Skincare
• Daily Microfoliant Dermalogica

We love this molecule, which can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water! Hyaluronic acid, while naturally present in the skin, sees its natural reserves diminish over time, increasing dehydration and fine lines. That's why offering a supplement in the form of a cream or serum, for example, is no luxury! 

This star moisturizing ingredient is present in many compositions:

• Moisturizing serum Oh My Cream Skincare
• Hyaluron Serum Moisturising Susanne Kaufmann
• Hyaluronic Gel Moisturizer Tata Harper
• Plumping oil Oh My Cream Skincare  

Probiotics are like the "guardian bacteria" our skin may need to defend itself against bad bacteria. They help rebalance and strengthen the skin's flora, and are also highly recommended for very sensitive skin. To find out more, read our article Our favorite probiotic skincare products and their benefits.

You'll find it in these products, for example:

• Cleansing emulsion Oh My Cream Skincare
• Lotus & Orange Blossom Tonic Paï Skincare
• Probiotic Concentrate Aurelia Probiotics
• Molecular Multi-Nutrient Day Cream Allies of Skin

Peptides are powerful anti-aging active ingredients whose role is to "give a helping hand" to the cell renewal process. Widely used in clean cosmetics, they are highly effective in slowing the appearance of wrinkles and loss of skin firmness, since peptides stimulate fibroblasts and activate their own production. The circle is complete! They also have an anti-stain and anti-pollution action.

For a healthy dose of anti-aging peptides, opt for :

• Super Peptide Firming Cream Kat Burki
• 1A Retinal & Peptides Overnight Mask Allies of Skin
• Age-Repair Serum Peptide & Polysaccharide Grown Alchemist
• Hydra-Mist Lemon & Amino-Peptide Grown Alchemist

That's right, fine particles, exhaust fumes and blue lights accelerate ageing, sensitize and dull the complexion. Yes, vitamins are antioxidants by nature. But some active ingredients do so in higher doses: this is the case with superoxide dismutase, asaxanthin, glutathione (active ingredients naturally present in our bodies), resveratrol... They are particularly appreciated for their high protection against pollution, since their role is to neutralize free radicals. Finally, they are mainly found in highly technical products. 

A few skincare products that use the properties of antioxidants to help urban skin :

• Active Oil-Free Moisturizer Indie Lee
• Molecular Multi-Nutrient Day Cream Allies of Skin
• CityLife Booster Anti-Pollution Concentrate Oskia

Vitamin C (or L-ascorbic acid) is theradiance and anti-stain active ingredient par excellence. It also neutralizes free radicals (aka pollution) and boosts collagen production, making it a super anti-aging ingredient. We take great care to select products with the highest quality vitamin C content, but we also give priority to its stabilized formula, as it is a very fragile vitamin. For more details, read our article Vitamin C: why does my skin need it?

For a vitamin C cure, opt for :

• Vitamin C Intensive Face Cream Kat Burki
• Super-C Nutritive Beauty Capsules Oskia
• Supreme-C Treatment Nuori
• Biolumin-C Eye Serum Dermalogica

Retinol is a powerful anti-aging active ingredient. Capable of acting deep down in the skin's layers, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibers, to better limit the appearance of wrinkles... but that's not all. It also promotes cell renewal, smoothing skin texture and helping to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots or the vestiges of old imperfections. We're now able to offer this super-active in non-irritating versions, so you can reap all the benefits. Sensitive skins can also turn to a new natural active ingredient called bakuchiol, which delivers similar results ;-)

• Retinoid sleep serum Oskia
• Overnight Retinol Repair Dermalogica
• Retin-C Treatment complex anti-aging serum Kat Burki
• 1A Retinal & Peptides Overnight Mask Allies of Skin
• Infinity Bio Fusion Serum Nuori

Niacinamide (or Vitamin B3) is a vitamin with numerous cosmetic benefits, mainly found in serums. Among other things, it smoothes skin texture and fights imperfections, adds radiance to the complexion and stimulates collagen production, making it an excellent anti-aging active ingredient. And, like other vitamins, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from pollution. Niacinamide has it all!

To test niacinamide in action, turn to :

• Anti Blemish Serum Oh My Cream Skincare
• Age Bright Clearing Serum Dermalogica

Plant stem cells, the use of which in cosmetics is the fruit of lengthy scientific research, are highly appreciated for slowing down skin ageing. They are capable of effectively stimulating the self-renewal process of skin cells. We have great faith in this new, cutting-edge anti-aging technology!

These highly technical active ingredients can be found in the following serums and creams:

• Stem Cell Serum Indie Lee
• EGF Serum Bioeffect
• Super Peptide Firming Cream Kat Burki