Beauty (clean)

Oh My Cream, at the very beginning, is a story of passion and desire. It's also a story of women who share the same deep need to see the world of beauty reinvent itself. Our promise? To give all women access to an alternative beauty: more cleanmore expert, more inspiring.

The clean beautyClean beauty is probably the aspect of our concept that you challenge the most. And you are right, because there is no official definition (unlike 100% natural or all organic, which are not necessarily the ideal solution for everyone!)

"For us, the word ‘clean’ is first and foremost a state of mind. It means being absolutely transparent about our products and our actions. And it also signifies giving our community all of the information you need to make the right choices."

The clean beauty at Oh My Cream, is a state of mind, irreducible to a simple formulation charter, of course (and fortunately). It is above all a search for balance, a compromise that is not always as simple as we would have you believe, between efficiency, safety and eco-responsibility :

Clean beauty effectiveness

Our first battle is with bullshit beauty. Tired of "empty" formulas, we track down the superfluous and the useless (which in the worst case is likely to provoke a reaction), against the tide of long blacklists, we focus on the active ingredients (whose coherence and concentration we study), and finally, we analyse a composition as a whole (contrary to "beauty applications", which are a bit Manichean for our taste), to evaluate the added value of a product and to be able to justify its price.

Safety of the clean beauty

It is true that in France we are particularly protected by European legislation, the strictest in the world. Nevertheless, at a time when controversies are multiplying and it has become complicated to disentangle the false from the true, we have conducted our own research, supported by numerous experts (toxicologists, regulators and formulators from different backgrounds), to realise that no ingredient is all black or all white. 

But rather than taking a position on the grounds that there is no truth, we are convinced of the importance of informing you, of the need to accept the convictions we have formed. And while it's up to each of us to apply (or not!) our own precautionary principle, it's ultimately our responsibility as distributors to share with you the list of ingredients that give us serious cause for doubt. Far be it from us to label them as dangerous to health, but we thought it prudent to temporarily rule them out (until the legislator can make up his mind).

Eco-responsibility of clean beauty

Limiting the environmental impact of clean beauty is a real priority. We are aware that our products are not irreproachable in this respect, because at present there is no ideal solution.

As once again everything is a matter of balance and compromise, we demand from our our brands an approach (whatever it is, as long as it is sincere and coherent) that evolves over time: whether it is to fight against over-packaging, to opt as much as possible for recycled and recyclable packaging, or to donate part of their profits to an NGO, to limit the use of polluting raw materials, or its carbon footprint, we are committed to referencing committed brands.

Oh My Cream's ingredients charter

A detailed analysis of the composition of the products selected for the Clean Beauty

At Oh My Cream, we pay great attention to the analysis of the composition of the products we refer. This is why, even if our vision of "clean beauty" is not about blacklists, you will find below our position on different families of ingredients that are currently under the spotlight. The first list includes the ingredients that we have discarded (as a precautionary principle, since there is unfortunately no absolute truth in this matter!), and the second those we tolerate but let's look at them with particular attention.

As regulations are constantly changing, we are committed to regularly updating these two lists (date of the last update: May 2020), and therefore work in close collaboration with a panel of experts (toxicologists and formulators from different backgrounds) as well as with a regulatory body (carrying out an international and permanent watch). We do not have a fixed approach and we evolve with the market, and we are obviously committed to adapting to changes in regulations (forcing brands to reformulate), to progress in cosmetics (encouraging brands to innovate... and reformulate) and to scientific research that leads to the discovery of credible alternatives to controversial ingredients.

And as we are aware that these are just our personal convictions, in order to best meet everyone's requirements and tolerance, we allow you to make your own choice with your own cursor, and to apply a principle of caution different from ours: by offering you a wide range from cosmeceutical brands (combining the best of science and nature), to natural brands as well as certified organicWe'll be happy to answer any questions you may have, in-store or at consultation@ohmycream.com (our advisers are like the "Wikipedia of beauty"!).

Focus on our methodology

It is true that European regulations lay the solid (and reassuring) foundations of the cosmetic formulation. But that's not all: in parallel, two entities constantly analyze and study ingredients under the spotlight. These independent bodies, which play the role of a kind of whistleblower, are the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) and the CORAP (Community Rolling Action Plan). Both give priority to substances that are to be evaluated over a period of time to ensure that the ingredients concerned do not pose a risk to human health or the environment. We have therefore decided to exclude these ingredients, which are currently being re-evaluated.

The ingredients temporarily ruled out

European legislation remains the strictest in the world and, even if everyone is entitled to apply a principle of caution or, quite simply, to consume according to his or her own slant, we do not believe that authorised ingredients are dangerous to health. This is all the more true since some ingredients that are the subject of controversy are replaced by other molecules on which science has very little hindsight... However, for the very rare families of ingredients that are currently being re-evaluated, we have taken the decision to remove them from the formulas we reference. Once again, we are not saying that they are "toxic" or "bad", but, in all transparency, we no longer use them on a personal basis... and we are our first customers.

Cyclic silicones include cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

To put it simply, silicones are mainly used to "texturise" a product, to make it easy to apply, to improve the hold of a make-up product, to combat water loss by creating a mesh on the skin's surface or to stabilise specific active ingredients (such as retinol or peptides for example).

There are two types of silicones:

  1. The "heavy" silicones which will remain on the surface of the skin. This is the case with dimethicone, for example. For him, no problem, its harmlessness is well proven.

  2. So-called "volatile" silicones, which fade on contact with skin heat. These include all silicones beginning with cyclo-.... They are strongly suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and some are currently being re-evaluated by regulatory bodies. In fact, some of them are already banned in rinse-off products. In a few years' time, this could also be the case for non-rinse-off products. We have therefore decided to exclude them from our formulas.

At Oh My Cream, we're all about moderation. And the sun is one of the pleasures to be indulged in small quantities. To protect your skin, we recommend mineral filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (without nano particles) or chemical filters (such as avobenzone, but there are others). For your information, to date, no filter is 100% irreproachable... The formulator must therefore juggle with a range of available sun filters, in order to offer the best possible protection with good tolerance and the least impact on our environment. We question our brands a lot on these subjects... but we also know how important sun protection is to protect skin from further damage. So we've put together a selection of products with different textures and scents to help you protect yourself when you're out in the sun.

However, we chose to exclude homosalate and benzophenone, as they are currently being re-evaluated and the suspicion of endocrine disruption was too strong.

The case of octocrylene: Under re-study by the SCCS for several years, this sunscreen has long been suspected of disrupting the endocrine system. At the end of March 2021, the SCCS indicated that its use was safe up to 10% (the percentage to which it is currently limited by the Cosmetics Regulation) in a cosmetic product.
Octocrylene is therefore accepted in our charter, the SCCS considering that there is insufficient evidence to conclude on its potential endocrine disrupting effect. 

Again, we don't argue about the importance of preservatives in cosmetics. They are the ones that allow us to enjoy all the benefits of our skin care products while protecting our favourite formulas from microbial contamination.

Parabens
In 2004, parabens were sidelined. The reason for this was a study that analysed women's breast tumours and found parabens in them. It was concluded that parabens promote the development of breast cancer. This study was later broken up because it was not scientifically valid. Parabens have since been the subject of numerous studies which have shown that short-chain parabens such as methylparaben and ethylparaben are safe, well tolerated and not very allergenic.
In contrast, long-chain parabens have been banned (e.g. Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Phenylparaben, Benzylparaben and Pentylparaben) and the use of Butylparaben and Propylparaben is strictly regulated since 2014 . Themain criticism of this family of parabens is thatthey are too similar to oestrogens.

At Oh My Cream, we prefer to leave out this family of preservatives, as there are many alternatives available to preserve a product, without worrying about.

MIT and MCIT
During the turmoil over parabens, it is MIT (for Methylisothiazolinone) and MCIT (for Methylchloroisothiazolinone) that have crept into many formulas to preserve them. However, these two preservatives from the same family are highly sensitising. Here again, as formulators have alternatives, we preferred to turn our backs on them...

BHA and BHT
BHA (ButylHydroxyAnisole) and BHT (ButylHydroxyToluene) are antioxidants that are known to protect oils from becoming rancid. Thus, they are often found in products rich in fats, such as creamy creams or lipsticks. But both are suspected of being endocrine disruptors and are being re-screened by regulatory bodies. As other solutions are available in the catalogue, we prefer not to see them in our formulas.

Ingredients we tolerate but watch carefully

When a product contains an ingredient of concern, we ensure that the concentration is as low as possible, and in most cases well below the threshold allowed by European legislation. We also take into account the purpose of the product, the frequency of use and the accumulation of controversial ingredients.

On the other hand, if we are used to tracking down the superfluous, we do not totally ban inert ingredients (which do not present any risk for the skin but which do not bring any particular benefit: mineral oils, certain silicones, perfumes, SLS etc.) but we verify that they do not make up the majority of the formula. In addition, when an ingredient is likely to cause a skin reaction in certain skin types, we check that the product in question is not intended for that particular target. For example, a mineral oil that is safe for dry, mature skin will not be suitable for problem skin, as its film-forming properties can create minor imperfections in this type of skin

Derived from petrochemicals, mineral oils are inert for the skin and totally harmless. The reason for their exclusion? Their chemical composition has no affinity with the skin. These ingredients remain on the surface, forming an insulating film. This is why mineral oils are often used in bandage formulas for babies or very dry skin, because in addition to their barrier effect (which limits insensible water loss), they are very well tolerated and do not react with other ingredients in the formulas. Their lipophilic properties also enable them to easily emulsify other impurities.

At Oh My Cream, we therefore tolerate them when they are present in products for dry or mature skin (they act as a band-aid and the natural molecules treat the cause in depth). On the other hand, we don't think they belong in products for blemished skin.

They're foaming agents: the lovely bubbles in your favorite shampoo are thanks to them! They are often criticized for being too effective. Underneath their strong foaming power, they can be a little irritating to the skin and eyes. Fortunately, this can be counterbalanced by combining them with gentle foaming agents (such as coconut derivatives). Brands have also significantly reduced the percentage of sulfates used in their formulas. We keep a close eye on them, but we don't blacklist them. It's all a question of dosage and combination!

This small molecule falls into the category of beta-hydroxy acids. In addition to its exfoliating action, it is also known to regulate sebum production and have a formidable anti-imperfection action. It's also a good preservative.
In an opinion published at the end of 2018, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concludes that salicylic acid poses no problem if used under regulatory conditions. Used as a preservative as well as an active ingredient, it is authorized at limited concentrations (but prohibited in toothpastes, products likely to be inhaled, and products intended for children under 3 years of age).
We therefore continue to accept this ingredient but watch with vigilance the products in which it is present.

They are used as hair conditioners and are known for their good detangling properties. Some also act as preservatives.
A high percentage can be irritating, and their manufacturing process raises ecological issues. As this family is very large, they do not all have exactly the same structure (Quaternium 15, for example, has been banned). However, today they are one of the only alternatives to silicones. Oh My Cream doesn't ban them, but watches carefully when they are added to a formula. Similarly, we prefer Behentrimonium Chloride and Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which are effective alternatives used in natural cosmetics.

They are emulsifiers that act as texture agents and "push" the active ingredients inside. Some are also humectants, which means they retain water and prevent the skin from drying out.
It's true that their ecological impact is not neutral (their manufacturing process in particular raises questions). However, this family of ingredients poses no health problems. We have therefore chosen not to blacklist them, not because ecology is of little importance to us, but because we are committed to offering a product range suitable for all skin types.

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative widely used in cosmetics, particularly in the wake of the post-paraben controversy. Some point the finger at phenoxyethanol as an endocrine disruptor, but to date, there is no scientific data to support these claims.

Furthermore, at the maximum authorized dosage (1%), it has been proven that 47 jars of cream would have to be applied to the face to reach a "toxic" dose. And when you know that many brands don't even go as far as this authorized percentage, you can use your favorite products with complete peace of mind...

They are called chelating agents, meaningthey have the ability to bind other molecules, enabling the formula to maintain perfect stability. They have no impact on health. On the other hand, it is true that this ingredient has a significant environmental impact: it does not disintegrate in the environment and continues its work by "catching" molecules.

However, given its harmlessness and effectiveness (natural alternatives exist but are less effective), we decided not to use it for the time being.

It is true that some fragrance molecules can be allergenic or sensitising. Those that are allergenic must, by legal obligation, be listed at the very end of the composition when they exceed a certain threshold: 0.01% in rinsed products, 0.001% in non-rinsed products, so that people who are allergic to them can identify them. Why is it not indicated below these thresholds? Because these are the thresholds for triggering an allergic reaction for sensitised people.

It's also important to know that a natural fragrance is often more allergenic than a synthetic one. In fact, essential oils are the most commonly used molecules for perfuming a product with natural ingredients. However, these are complex ingredients, sometimes comprising over a hundred molecules, which means that sensitive skin has to assimilate many messages. We have therefore chosen to include brands that use both synthetic and natural fragrances in our listings, because we are convinced that this contributes enormously to the sensorial experience of a product. And to satisfy all skin types, we also offer fragrance-free brands.

The assets we want in our formulas

If we make it a point of honor to eliminate certain cosmetic components (which we no longer use personally), we put even more energy into selecting products with the cleanest, most expert and most effective the cleanest, most expert and most effective compositions possible. And because it would be impossible to list them all, discover below the non-exhaustive list of ingredients clean beauty that we favor in our assortment!

We highly value natural ingredients but are also open to quality synthetic actives, because we strongly believe that science has as much to offer as natural and/or certified organic cosmetics. For example, some very sensitive skins cannot tolerate a 100% natural formulation; in terms ofanti-agingsome amazing feats have been achieved by cosmeceutical brands... It's up to each person to place their cursor where they want it.

Floral waters (or hydrolats) are obtained during the distillation process of essential oils. They are therefore distilled waters - much less concentrated than essential oils - with very interesting cosmetic virtues. Soothing, moisturising, balancing... They are mainly used in tonics, pure or in synergy with other active ingredients or hydrolats. There are as many benefits as there are floral waters on the market. 

Floral waters are notably present in the following lotions and tonics: 

Ah, vegetable oils! They are the stars of our cosmetic products, asthey are found in almost all skin care products and very often as the "base" of a formula. Each oil has its own benefits: we don't stop at their nourishing powers alone. They can boost regeneration, be regulating, illuminating, protective... enough to satisfy all skin types, even mixed to oily skin! 

You will find vegetable oils in the following products:

Essential oils are real concentrates of natural benefits. While they are increasingly found in medicine cabinets, they are also widely used in clean cosmetics (e.g. moisturising creams, care oils or serums). cosmetics (e.g. moisturising creams, care oils or serums). They are known for their purifying, regenerating, purifying, anti-ageing, soothing properties... They can also replace synthetic fragrances or be used to preserve a product naturally.

Some emblematic products using the benefits of essential oils:

Yes, that's right. The number of varieties is incalculable, because that would be like having to scour every square inch of the world! To name just a few plants that are very popular at Oh My Cream:aloe vera is ideal for moisturising and repairing the skin,oatmeal is very soothing,arnica is a natural anti-inflammatory, green tea has astringent and detoxifying properties, camomile is very effective in combating redness and feelings of discomfort... 

You will find it in the following products, for example:

Superfoods are not only good for our bodies, they are also good for our skin! We love using them in our cosmetics for their ultra-protective antioxidant power. But why are you hearing so much about antioxidants? In our bodies, as in our skin, we have a natural reserve of antioxidants that fight free radicals (molecules that unbalance our cellular functioning) on a daily basis. The problem? When excessive stress, pollution and poor diet get in the way ... the natural antioxidant/free radical balance is upset. This is called oxidative stress. So, just like the importance of eating 5 fruits and vegetables a day, adopt treatments rich in pomegranate, goji berries, or broccoli .

Care products that are full of superfoods:

Mainly used in purifying and detoxifying masks, there are many varieties to meet the needs of all skin types. Why do we like them so much? By acting like real magnets on the surface of the skin, they are very effective in absorbing impurities and tightening pores, but not only that... they can also be found in many products for their anti-pollution and even soothing powers

The clay mask is a classic, reinterpreted in several forms:

Although they have the same exfoliating function as fruit acids, fruit enzymes are less powerful: this is why they are recommended for sensitive skin. In this large family, we find papaya, kiwi, apple, pumpkin, pomegranate... Stimulating cell renewal, they also have the capacity to smooth the skin texture by nibbling the dead cells on the surface. 

Fruit enzymes are found in the following scrubs:

The main fruit acids used in cosmetics are lactic and glycolic acids. They belong to the family of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). These powerful exfoliating agents stimulate cell renewal, microcirculation and collagen synthesis. We prefer chemical exfoliants based on fruit acids to classic grainy scrubs because they are gentler and more respectful of the skin barrier. 

Fruit acids can be found in masks, lotions and exfoliating powders:

We love this molecule which has the capacity to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water! Hyaluronic acid, although naturally present in the skin, sees its natural reserves diminish over time, increasing dehydration but also small wrinkles. This is why offering a supplement through a cream or a serum for example, is not a luxury! 

This star moisturizing ingredient is present in many compositions:

Probiotics are the "guardian bacteria" that our skin may need to defend itself against bad bacteria. They help to rebalance and strengthen the skin flora and are also highly recommended for very sensitive skin. To find out more, you can read our article Our favourite skincare products with probiotics and their benefits.

You will find it in these products for example:

Peptides are powerful anti-ageing active ingredients whose role is to "give a hand" to the cell renewal process. Widely used in clean cosmetics, they are very interesting for slowing down the appearance of wrinkles and the loss of skin firmness since peptides stimulate fibroblasts and activate their own production. The circle is complete! They also have an anti-stain and anti-pollution action.

For a good dose of anti-ageing thanks to peptides, we bet on :

Yes, fine particles, exhaust fumes and blue lights accelerate ageing, sensitise and dull the complexion. So, vitamins are antioxidants by nature. But some active ingredients are antioxidants in higher doses: this is the case of superoxide dismutase, asaxanthin, glutathione (active ingredients naturally present in our body), resveratrol... They are particularly appreciated for their high protection against pollution, since their role is to neutralise free radicals. Lastly, they are mainly found in very technical products. 

Some treatments using the properties of antioxidants to help urban skin:

Vitamin C (or L-ascorbic acid) is theultimate radiance and anti-stain ingredient. It also neutralises free radicals (aka pollution) and boosts collagen production, making it a great anti-ageing ingredient. We take care to select products with the highest quality vitamin C content, but also by favouring its stabilised formula as it is a very fragile vitamin. For more details, see our article Vitamin C: why does my skin need it?

For a vitamin C cure, we rely on :

Retinol is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient. Capable of acting right down to the deepest layers of the skin, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibres, to better limit the appearance of wrinkles... but not only that. It also promotes cell renewal, smoothing skin texture and allowing the skin to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots or the remnants of old imperfections. We are now able to offer this super-active in non-irritating versions so that you only get the benefits. Sensitive skin can also turn to a new natural active called bakuchiol which delivers similar results ;-)

Niacinamide (or Vitamin B3) is a vitamin with numerous cosmetic benefits, mainly found in serums and which has the particularity of being very stable. Among other things, it smoothes the skin texture and fights against imperfections, brings radiance to the complexion and stimulates the production of collagen, which makes it an excellent anti-ageing active. And, like other vitamins, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from pollution. Niacinamide really does have it all!

To test niacinamide in action, turn to :

Plant stem cells, the use of which in cosmetics is the result of extensive scientific research, are highly valued for slowing down skin ageing. They are able to effectively stimulate the self-renewal process of the skin cells. We believe in this new and advanced anti-ageing technology!

This type of highly technical active ingredients can be found in the following serums and creams: